Triangles Shawl- With Buttons

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This is an easy shawl to knit.  It starts with 3 mitered triangles.  The body of the shawl is picked up around the triangles.  I’ve tried to add extra directions for new knitters.  Please contact me through Ravelry (I’m madbee)  if you have any questions, comments, or corrections.

Materials

Long Round Needle
Markers
Worsted weight yarn
Sample: Wisdom Yarns Poems Silk Solids: 704 Aubergine- 3 skeins = 300 yards
            Wisdom Yarns Poems Yarn: 592 Embers- 1skein = less than 100 yards.

(My sample is made in worsted weight but you can use a different weight as long as you knit to the back length you prefer.)

Yarns and Gauge

Gauge is not crucial in this project.
My sample is 16 stitches = 4 inches after blocking.  After blocking, the length along the bottom of each of the triangles, is 10 inches.  The length of my shawl from the center back to the bind-off is 15.5 inches, after blocking.

I like the way ends of the triangles show in front when the shawl is on.  Depending on your choice of yarn, you might have a larger triangle section with heavier yarn, which should work out fine.  If you use a lighter weight yarn,  add more repeats in the body section to get the length you like.

I used worsted weight yarn with long repeats and a contrasting solid. The solid used for the body could be used with another solid (or 3 other solids) in the triangles, alternating every 2 rows-- or any creative combination you come up with.

Abbreviations

RS         Right Side
WS        Wrong Side
K          Knit
P            Purl
SL         Slip
K2tog    Knit 2 together, right leaning decrease
SSK      Slip 2, knit together, left leaning decrease
YO       Yarn over
SSKP   Centered double decrease. Slip 2 stitches together as if to knit, knit one,
              pass slipped stitches
              over        
PM     Place Marker
SM      Slip Marker

3 Mitered Triangles

CO 49 stitches

Row 1 (WS) Knit

Row 2. SL1, K2tog, K 20, SSKP, K 20, K2tog, P1

Row 3. SL1, Purl

Row 4. SL1, K2tog, (YO, SSK) 9 times, SSKP, (K2tog, yo) 9 times, K2tog, P1 9

Row 5 SL1, Purl

Row 6 SL1, K2tog, K 16, SSKP, K 16, K2tog, P1

Row 7. K36, P1

Row 8. SL1, K2tog, K 14, SSKP, K 14, K2tog, P1

Row 9. SL1, Purl

Row 10. SL1. K2tog, (YO, SSK) 6 times, SSKP, (K2tog, YO) 6 times, K2tog, P1

Row 11. SL1, Purl

Row 12. SL1, K2tog, K 10, SSKP, K 10, K2tog, P1

Row 13. SL1, K23, P1

Row 14. SL 1, K2tog, K8, SSKP, K8, K2tog, P1

Row 15. SL1, Purl

Row 16. SL1, K2tog, (YO, K2tog) 3 times, SSKP, (SSK, YO) 3 times, K2tog, P1

Row 17. SL1, Purl

Row 18. SL1, K2tog, K4, SSKP, K4, K2tog, P1

Row 19. SL!, Knit

Row 20. SL1, K2tog, K 2, SSKP, K2, SSK, P1

Row 21. SL1, Purl

Row 22. SL1, K2tog, SSKP, SSK, P1

Row 23. SL1, Purl (5)

Row 24. SL1, SSKP, P1

Row 25. P3 tog, cut and pull yarn through last stitch.  Weave in end.


This side, with the end woven in is the long, outside edge.

After this 1st triangle is done, turn it sideways, right side up with the longest side facing left.

Pick up 25 stitches along the lower right edge, then cast on 24 stitches using cable cast-on.   49 stitches.

Repeat Rows 1- 25 for 2nd triangle.


Third triangle
Starting at the lower right side of the 2nd (middle) triangle, right side up, pick up 25 stitches, then cast on 24 stitches using cable cast-on.  Repeat Rows 1-25 for 3rd triangle.

Block the 3 triangles piece. Soak it and pin it squared off and stretched to open the pattern. (Below is a picture of the triangles piece blocked.)

Body

With triangle section facing, pick up 2 stitches close together on the top of the outside edge of the left triangle, PM.   Continue picking up 23 stitches in slipped stitches to corner where next triangle meets.  PM, Pick up 2 stitches close together in the corner, PM. Continue around like this, picking up 23 stitches along the edges and 2 stitches close together in the next corners and at the top edge of the last triangle.  Put markers before and after the 2 stitches picked up close together.

Note:  You will be increasing 6 stitches, with yarnovers, every right side row.  Row 3 of the body pattern says purl 2 together (P2tog).  You can do either a right leaning (P2 tog) or a left leaning (SSP) decrease, whichever is easier for your style of knitting, as long as you do the same decrease throughout.

Ridge Mesh Pattern

Beginning on WS:

Row 1. (WS) Knit slipping markers.

Row 2. & 4:  (RS) K2, SM, YO, **K to next marker, YO, SM, K2, SM, YO**, repeat ** one more time. K to last marker, YO,SM, K2.

Row 3.   (WS) **K2, SM,  **K1, (P2tog, YO) repeat (  ) to last 2 stitches before marker, K1, P1, SM,**  Repeat **  ** 2 more times, to last 2 stitches, SM K2

Repeat these 4 rows 15 times.  If you want a longer shawl, add additional repeats.

Body Pattern Chart 

 Row 1           (WS) K
 Row 2 & 4    (RS) K
 Row 3           (WS) K1, *YO, P2tog *, repeat to 2 stitches before marker, P1, K1

Repeat these 4 rows








Knit to your desired length, ending with row 4.   Using the color(s) from the triangles, Knit three rows, bind off.

Buttons!

Why buttons?  Because I almost never wear my triangle shawls, but with this shawl and my sleeves buttoned I can go anywhere.  Even with just the center button (I use them either/or) I’ve traveled around  airports with luggage, walked dogs, etc. without fussing with my shawl.

Add buttons to the inside of the two points for sleeves, and to the center if desired.   Put the shawl on and see where you want to put the button in the front.  Then figure out where, along the front edge,  you want the corner buttons to button.  Fortunately this pattern has “buttonholes” everywhere so you can experiment.  I sew around the "buttonhole" so it is easier to find them and the yarn doesn't ravel..