Triangles Shawl- With Buttons

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This is an easy shawl to knit.  It starts with 3 mitered triangles.  The body of the shawl is picked up around the triangles.  I’ve tried to add extra directions for new knitters.  Please contact me through Ravelry (I’m madbee)  if you have any questions, comments, or corrections.

Materials

Long Round Needle
Markers
Worsted weight yarn
Sample: Wisdom Yarns Poems Silk Solids: 704 Aubergine- 3 skeins = 300 yards
            Wisdom Yarns Poems Yarn: 592 Embers- 1skein = less than 100 yards.

(My sample is made in worsted weight but you can use a different weight as long as you knit to the back length you prefer.)

Yarns and Gauge

Gauge is not crucial in this project.
My sample is 16 stitches = 4 inches after blocking.  After blocking, the length along the bottom of each of the triangles, is 10 inches.  The length of my shawl from the center back to the bind-off is 15.5 inches, after blocking.

I like the way ends of the triangles show in front when the shawl is on.  Depending on your choice of yarn, you might have a larger triangle section with heavier yarn, which should work out fine.  If you use a lighter weight yarn,  add more repeats in the body section to get the length you like.

I used worsted weight yarn with long repeats and a contrasting solid. The solid used for the body could be used with another solid (or 3 other solids) in the triangles, alternating every 2 rows-- or any creative combination you come up with.

Abbreviations

RS         Right Side
WS        Wrong Side
K          Knit
P            Purl
SL         Slip
K2tog    Knit 2 together, right leaning decrease
SSK      Slip 2, knit together, left leaning decrease
YO       Yarn over
SSKP   Centered double decrease. Slip 2 stitches together as if to knit, knit one,
              pass slipped stitches
              over        
PM     Place Marker
SM      Slip Marker

3 Mitered Triangles

CO 49 stitches

Row 1 (WS) Knit

Row 2. SL1, K2tog, K 20, SSKP, K 20, K2tog, P1

Row 3. SL1, Purl

Row 4. SL1, K2tog, (YO, SSK) 9 times, SSKP, (K2tog, yo) 9 times, K2tog, P1 9

Row 5 SL1, Purl

Row 6 SL1, K2tog, K 16, SSKP, K 16, K2tog, P1

Row 7. K36, P1

Row 8. SL1, K2tog, K 14, SSKP, K 14, K2tog, P1

Row 9. SL1, Purl

Row 10. SL1. K2tog, (YO, SSK) 6 times, SSKP, (K2tog, YO) 6 times, K2tog, P1

Row 11. SL1, Purl

Row 12. SL1, K2tog, K 10, SSKP, K 10, K2tog, P1

Row 13. SL1, K23, P1

Row 14. SL 1, K2tog, K8, SSKP, K8, K2tog, P1

Row 15. SL1, Purl

Row 16. SL1, K2tog, (YO, K2tog) 3 times, SSKP, (SSK, YO) 3 times, K2tog, P1

Row 17. SL1, Purl

Row 18. SL1, K2tog, K4, SSKP, K4, K2tog, P1

Row 19. SL!, Knit

Row 20. SL1, K2tog, K 2, SSKP, K2, SSK, P1

Row 21. SL1, Purl

Row 22. SL1, K2tog, SSKP, SSK, P1

Row 23. SL1, Purl (5)

Row 24. SL1, SSKP, P1

Row 25. P3 tog, cut and pull yarn through last stitch.  Weave in end.


This side, with the end woven in is the long, outside edge.

After this 1st triangle is done, turn it sideways, right side up with the longest side facing left.

Pick up 25 stitches along the lower right edge, then cast on 24 stitches using cable cast-on.   49 stitches.

Repeat Rows 1- 25 for 2nd triangle.


Third triangle
Starting at the lower right side of the 2nd (middle) triangle, right side up, pick up 25 stitches, then cast on 24 stitches using cable cast-on.  Repeat Rows 1-25 for 3rd triangle.

Block the 3 triangles piece. Soak it and pin it squared off and stretched to open the pattern. (Below is a picture of the triangles piece blocked.)

Body

With triangle section facing, pick up 2 stitches close together on the top of the outside edge of the left triangle, PM.   Continue picking up 23 stitches in slipped stitches to corner where next triangle meets.  PM, Pick up 2 stitches close together in the corner, PM. Continue around like this, picking up 23 stitches along the edges and 2 stitches close together in the next corners and at the top edge of the last triangle.  Put markers before and after the 2 stitches picked up close together.

Note:  You will be increasing 6 stitches, with yarnovers, every right side row.  Row 3 of the body pattern says purl 2 together (P2tog).  You can do either a right leaning (P2 tog) or a left leaning (SSP) decrease, whichever is easier for your style of knitting, as long as you do the same decrease throughout.

Ridge Mesh Pattern

Beginning on WS:

Row 1. (WS) Knit slipping markers.

Row 2. & 4:  (RS) K2, SM, YO, **K to next marker, YO, SM, K2, SM, YO**, repeat ** one more time. K to last marker, YO,SM, K2.

Row 3.   (WS) **K2, SM,  **K1, (P2tog, YO) repeat (  ) to last 2 stitches before marker, K1, P1, SM,**  Repeat **  ** 2 more times, to last 2 stitches, SM K2

Repeat these 4 rows 15 times.  If you want a longer shawl, add additional repeats.

Body Pattern Chart 

 Row 1           (WS) K
 Row 2 & 4    (RS) K
 Row 3           (WS) K1, *YO, P2tog *, repeat to 2 stitches before marker, P1, K1

Repeat these 4 rows








Knit to your desired length, ending with row 4.   Using the color(s) from the triangles, Knit three rows, bind off.

Buttons!

Why buttons?  Because I almost never wear my triangle shawls, but with this shawl and my sleeves buttoned I can go anywhere.  Even with just the center button (I use them either/or) I’ve traveled around  airports with luggage, walked dogs, etc. without fussing with my shawl.

Add buttons to the inside of the two points for sleeves, and to the center if desired.   Put the shawl on and see where you want to put the button in the front.  Then figure out where, along the front edge,  you want the corner buttons to button.  Fortunately this pattern has “buttonholes” everywhere so you can experiment.  I sew around the "buttonhole" so it is easier to find them and the yarn doesn't ravel..

String Market Bag

A sturdy bag for groceries, library books, and whatever you want to put in it.

Abbreviations

sc  single crochet

dc  double crochet
ch  chain


You will make fewer rounds depending on the weight of your yarn and the size of the bag you want.  Use the smallest crochet hook comfortable for your yarn.  It’s better if the bag is worked tighter because it will stretch a lot.  For the body of the bag I start with 3 rows of chain 3 loops, 5 rows of chain 5 loops, 7 rows of chain 7 loops.  The chain 9 loops can vary according to your bag.  Probably 4-7 will be plenty unless you want it bigger.  The bag will look small but it will stretch a lot once you start using it.  A handle of 60 stitches will be enough to put over your shoulder in most cases.  Make the handle shorter if you want it over your wrist.

Remember: It’s a bag.  It doesn’t have to fit anyone.  It’s a great way to use leftover yarns.  I have used cottons and cotton blends.

Base
Chain 3 and connect with slip stitch to form a loop
Row 1  Chain 3. 11 dc in loop.  Join with slip stitch to chain 3.  (12)
Row 2      Chain 3, dc in same space as chain.  2 dc in each space between stitches. Join with slip stitch to chain 3  (24)
Row 3     Chain 3.  dc in same space as  chain 3.  *2 dc between each of next 2 stitches * all around.  Join with slip stitch to ch  3
Row 4     Chain 3. dc in same space.  *dc, 2 dc in next space* around.  Join with slip stitch to ch 3.
Row 5     Chain 3. dc in same space as ch 3.  *dc, dc, 2 dc in same space* all around. Join with slip stitch to ch3.

Body
Note: The row counts are starting again for the body of the bag
Row 1          Place marker and move for row count.  Chain 3, skip one stitch SC in next space* around.
Row 2-3      Chain 3, sc in chain 3 from previous row
Row 4-8      Chain 5, sc in chain from previous row
Row 9-15     Chain 7, sc in chain from previous row
Row 16-20    (more or less, as desired) Chain 9, sc in chain from previous row.

Top and Handles
3 Sc in each ch 9 space all around.
 (If it still seems enormous, go around again with 1 sc in every other sc.  Depends on the weight of your yarn.)
Row 1.       Single crochet in 25 sc.
Row 2.       Turn.  Ch 1, sc in each sc.
Row 3 & 4 Repeat rows 1 and 2 .

Turn sideways and slip stitch down side of last 4 rows.  Continue around with sc.  Fold bag in half in the middle of your last chain 25 section.  Count back 12 from the fold and start  another 25 sc section there.  When it is finished continue around to edge of 1st 25 sc part.  Sc up the side.  Chain (loosely) for 60 stitches.  This gives you a medium handle.  If you want it longer or shorter adjust the number of stitches.

*Remember it will stretch.  Attach with sc to other end of 25 block.  Continue around to other 25 section and chain the same amount as the first handle.  Do at least 4 rows around.

Ripple Buttons Stay On Shawl

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Abbreviations
K knit
P purl
K2tog knit 2 together- right leaning decrease
SSK Slip, slip, knit these 2 stitches together- left leaning decrease
YO yarn over
PM place marker
SM slip marker
WS wrong side
RS right side

garter stitch- knit every row
stockinet stitch- knit right side, purl wrong side.



A shawl with three sections designed to stay on comfortably, with the optional additions of a few strategic buttons to turn it into a shrug or just to stay on better.

There is no gauge because you can use any weight yarn as long as you get the measurements you want.  I’ve made it in 2 different DK’s. One, Green Misti Alpaca Tonos Pima Silk, is a lighter DK and the second, Tatamy Tweed DK,  is almost like a light worsted.

The longest one I made measures 15 inches blocked measuring from the center back neck to the hem, with 8 pattern repeats.  The shorter dark green one has 6 repeats and the avocado one has 7.  If you want sleeve buttons a longer shawl is better.


Directions

This shawl will have 3 equal sections, divided by 2 garter stitch “seams” with yarn-overs on each side of those stitches.  Every row will start and end with 2 garter stitches, with a yarn over after the first 2 and before the last 2 on the right side.  8 stitches increased every RS row.

Start with Garter Tab:
Cast on 3 stitches
Knit 11 Rows
Turn and pick up 5 stitches on purl bumps along the side
Turn and pick up 3 stitches along the cast on end
11 stitches on the needle


Foundation Row (WS)
K2, PM, K1, PM, K2, PM, K1, PM, K2, PM, K1, PM, K2

Row I: (RS) K2, SM, YO, **knit to marker YO, SM, K2, SM, YO**  Repeat **  ** 1 more time,   knit to last marker, YO, SM, K2

Row 2: K2, SM,  *P to marker, SM, K2* , repeat ** 1 more time. Purl to marker, SM, K2.

(Correction on repeats.)

Ripple pattern

Work rows 1 &2 until there are 11 stitches between markers on the WS.

Begin chart on row 1 and work right to left on odd number rows and left to right on even number row.  Slip markers showing the beginning of the chart on each section.  Work the chart, continuing the (YO, K2, YO) increases as established.

On next RS row, K2, YO, then PM, and begin Row 1 of ripple chart over 11 stitches. On the next 2 sections, begin ripple pattern between markers.  Place a marker before the first stitch of the pattern on each of the sections.  YO, SM, K2, SM, YO, after each of the first two sections, on last follow pattern section with YO, SM, K2.  Work extra stitches before the markers starting the charted pattern in stockinet stitch.  (knit on RS and purl on WS).

Continue like this, adding a new repeat of the chart on the beginning and end of each panel after the last garter ridge, as in rows 12 and 24.  For example, begin row 13, K2, YO, and start chart.  Always K1 between pattern repeats.  That K1 will line up with the center stitch of the repeat below it.

When beginning a new repeat, you can count 11 stitches from the center of the repeat on the row below, not counting the center stitch.



Ripple Chart

Chart Key:
Blank space:   K on right side, P on wrong side
Black dot:    Knit on wrong side, P on right side
/ :    Right leaning decrease, K2tog
\ :    Left leaning decrease, SSK
O:   Yarn over
Solid Black Square:  No stitch

When you have your desired length, add edging after completing chart repeat.  Row 2 of this edging include a YO row which will give you buttonholes for sleeves.  If you are making a small shawl or don’t’ care about sleeves, you can purl row 2.

Edging
(RS) Row 1` Purl
         Row 2 YO P2 tog
         Row 3 Purl
         Bind off

                                                               

Leafy Buttons Stay Put Shawl

Buttons Shawl

I wanted a shawl that is easy to wear when I'm active.  The shape stays on and with the addition of the front button, I can walk the dogs, drive, go shopping-- whatever.  Also you can add buttons on the inside of the 2 points between sections and have sleeves.  

There are three sections designed to stay on the shoulders, with the optional additions of a few strategic buttons to turn it into a shrug or just to stay on better.  

Abbreviations

K knit

P purl

K2tog knit 2 together- right leaning decrease

SSK Slip, slip, knit these 2 stitches together- left leaning decrease

YO yarn over

PM place marker

SM slip marker

RM remove marker

WS wrong side

RS right side

Start with Garter Tab

Cast on 3 stitches

Knit 11 Rows

Turn and pick up 5 stitches on purl ridge near the edge

Turn and pick up 3 stitches along the cast on edge

11 stitches on the needle

Foundation Row (WS)

K2, PM, K1, PM, K2, PM, K1, PM, K2, PM, K1, PM, K2

Row I: (RS) K2, SM, YO, **knit to marker YO, SM, K2, SM, YO**  Repeat **  ** 2 times,   SM YOK2

Row 2: K2  *P to marker, SM, K2* , repeat ** 2 more times. Purl to marker, SM, K2.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until there are 15 stitches (WS) in each panel between yarn overs.  RS K2 YO, PM and begin row 1 of small chart, knitting one stitch after the 14 chart stitches.    Even rows are purl. All of the WS rows are purl.

The second chart shows how the pattern will repeat as you have more stitches in that section.

Continue until center back measures, from center of neck edge to last row, 13” blocked (shorter shawl) or 14” blocked for a longer shawl (or shorter or longer if you prefer), ending on a wrong side row.

Work 4 more rows and then work the last Border Chart, continuing (K2, YO)'s until the last row. 

Optional Buttons

Try the shawl on and figure out where you’d like a button on the left front edge.  Sew 2 buttons on the inside of the points, where the increases were made between sections.  You can button these against the edges for sleeves. 

Please contact me with any questions.

I have added some more directions to this pattern, and I hope it helps.

Charts

Chart Key

Blank spaces:    Knit on right side, purl on wrong side
                        Knit on wrong side, purl on right side
⁄                        K2tog, right leaning decrease
\                         SSK, left leaning decrease
                       Yarn over
Solid black square= no stitch

Notes on Chart 1

The chart is worked from right to left for the right side and left to right for the wrong side.

Every right side row begins with K2, YO, and has YO, K2, YO, between the triangle sections, ending with YO, K2.  The wrong side rows begin with are purl except knit the 2 first and last stitches, and between the YO increases separating the sections.

For example:

Row 1: K2, PM, YO, PM, K6, K2TOG, K3, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K1 PM, YO, PM, KnK2,** YO* repeat one more time from *, then repeat from * ending on **

Row 2 (and all even rows) Knit the 2 stitches between or next to YO increases, Purl the rest.

Chart 2

This chart only shows the right side rows, knit all from right to left.  All wrong size rows are purled.   

Use this chart to count where to add new pattern repeats.  The 17 stitches show a full repeat, but it isn't necessary to start there.  Every 8 rows the design alternates.  Depending on the stitches available for the next 8 row, count back from the pattern on the row below and PM.  Begin either with a K2TOG, YO, K1, YO (as in row 1 of chart) or YO, K1, YO, SSK (as in row 5 on chart)



                                            

 Sometimes you may want to add a leaf without having enough stitches to do the corresponding decreases.  The way this shawl is shaped the extra stitch (from the yarn over without the decrease) won't matter.

Border

RS. K2, YO, PM, work border chart, repeating until the last 2 stitches, PM, YO, K2.

As you continue with chart, work stitches between YO’s and markers in stockinet stitch (k on right side, purl on wrong side).  

Border chart

Bind off in purl.

               

           

Very Easy Cowl / Neck Warmer

I made this for myself a few years ago to have something warm and easy to throw on when it’s cold.  It is very easy for any knitter.

Gauge: 11-12 stitches per inch.  But if your gauge is larger you will just have a slightly larger cowl.
Worsted weight yarn – about 150 yards
Size US 8 needles or size needed for gauge

Cast on 80 stitches over two needles held together using long tail. Remove one needle and start pattern

Row 1: Knit (RS)
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: Purl
Row 4: Knit

Repeat these four rows 17 times or until you have 17 purl stripes on the right side

Repeat Row 1 & 2

Bind off loosely and sew the sides together.

If you want to knit this in the round without a seam:
Cast on 80 stitches and join being careful not to twist the stitches.
Row 1 & 2: knit
Row 3 & 4: purl
Repeat for 17 purl stripes then finish with row 1 & 2.

Yarns with Long Repeats

A while ago I made the happy discovery that I could use yarns with long repeats for entrelac.  I like the idea of not bothering with changing colors and I really like the random surprise of new colors.  Sometimes there can be knots in many of these yarns.  I have found knots once in a while, but if they are tiny I ignore them.  If there is a major knot and there is some wool in the yarn, I cut it and spit felt it. 

With entrelac or mitered patterns, the knitter can always manipulate colors to get certain effects.  Picking out yarns with repeats, I usually avoid ones with a sudden very dark color in otherwise lighter shades, unless I especially want that effect as in a contrasting stripe.  Often I'll look up the yarn on Ravelry in the color I'm considering, and go to the projects for that color.  It's not foolproof because dye lots can vary, but it gives a me a love/hate impression.


Chroma by Knitpicks
This yarn comes in fingering and worsted weight.  It's a 70/30 blend of wool and nylon.  This yarn is usually only available by mail from Knitpicks, so it's a good idea to check finished projects to see how the colors work up.  It's a very soft single ply and is pretty economical.  
worsted- 198 yards
fingering- 396 yards

These are two examples of Chroma in fingering. 

This is a free pattern from Chrystal Palace Yarns.  It is mitered and made in one piece, in Impressionist, one of my recent favorite Chroma colors.

 
The second is a beautiful free entrelac pattern, Dianna, in U-pick, color that has been discontinued. 



 




Berroco Lodge

Lodge is a very soft yarn, a blend of 47% wool, 47% acrylic, and 6% rayon.  It is considered bulky weight but it is not as bulky as many other yarns.  I have used it with worsted weight yarn and it worked well.  I think the colorways have a softness too.  (I have linked to Ravelry but often looking in a yarn store or at some of the websites that sell online will show additional colors.) 

. 

This is a scarf I made using Lodge and worsted weight Cascade Pure Alpaca.  The pattern is a free doubleknit download from Ravelry called From My Heart.  Doubleknitting produced a thick reversible fabric.

Mochi

Crystal Palace Mochi comes in different weights and 

really pretty colors.  Very soft.  

It's lovely for entrelac and mitered designs.

Universal Classic Shades comes in worsted and bulky weight.  A wool blend but very unshrinkable.  It is available in many nice colorways from very bright to subtle and also is available  in solids.